Beyond Fashion with Olga Karput: Unveiling the Journey of Russia’s Premier Concept Store

Sharing insights into the ethos that drives her success, Baku speaks with Olga Karput, Founder of Moscow’s concept store KM20 and restaurant KM20 Food, about pioneering a new concept in retail that challenged the norms of luxury fashion and introducing the international fashion scene of Maison Margiela, JW Anderson, Vetements, Raf Simons with Russian designers. 

 

Baku: What were your biggest challenges in the early days with starting KM20 at such a young age?

Olga Karput: I have always been quite a determined girl.  I opened KM20 when I was 26 years old – It was my first project and it turned out to be the project of my life. It was quite challenging overall when we opened the store in 2009. The project was totally new; the team was bold and brave but had no retail experience whatsoever. It was a huge challenge persuading brands to work with us, because the only thing we had to show them was a short presentation of how we conceptualised the store. The designers were a bit hesitant, understandably.

We managed to assemble one of the most fantastic brand lists for the first time in Russia back in 2009. Brands like Maison Margiela, Chalayan, Raf Simons, etc. didn’t just agree to work with us, but also agreed to do special installations and archive exhibitions. We were the first store to show and sell Margiela Artisanal outside of their own stores that year as well.

It’s challenging to always stay current and ahead of the times and not live in the past. The brand list has changed dramatically since the store opened and it was the most cutting-edge list at every stage. Now, I’m very proud to see that pretty much every brand is open to working with us.

Baku: What was the demographic of your first ever clients and how have this changed throughout time?

OK: Before KM20 opened, the market was concentrated solely on well-established luxury brands which focused on things like “grown-up” fashion and logo mania—it was all very stiff. The market existed only for wealthy people, and the only alternatives people had were street markets and shopping centres in the suburbs full of cheap, fake products. KM20 has managed—as it was one of our main goals from the beginning—to raise a whole new generation: cool kids who consider us the mecca and measuring point for everything. Fashion, culture, music and parties, all connected.

Baku: Have collaborations become an integral part of KM20’s identity? How do you navigate these collaborations?

OK: Love exchange, how I call collaborations – that’s my recipe for success. We’ve managed to create multiple and very cool collaborations throughout our history with brands including Vetements, Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Heron Preston, ALYX and many more. For our 10th anniversary in 2019 we have really made a statement with our celebratory collaborations presenting memory pieces like our own Raf Simons tote made for KM20. At the moment I’m working on a book which will depict our 15 years story and I aim to tell about every collaboration we’ve made in these years.

Baku: What is something you will never compromise on with your projects?

OK: We’ve always aimed to be the first to bring the hottest designers to the market and introduce new names to our clients in Russia. I’d say we’ve proved ourselves as the industry’s quality mark for fashion and gained this incredible loyalty from our clients. If we buy anything, it means it’s the ultimate fashion product—be it a hyped brand or a new, unknown designer. I also firmly believe that it’s better to skip something if I’m not 100-percent sure about it. What we do in KM20 has to be top-notch. I can even say I don’t compromise at all when it comes to true talent or absence of the talent. KM20 and everything we do has to be the best, always. At least in my vision. 

Baku: What drove you to your decision in the launch of KM20food and KM20water? And, do you plan on creating any new KM20 projects?

OK: KM20 is not only about fashion – it’s a whole lifestyle. So creating a wholesome restaurant was a must for me. The menu is consistent with my own personal philosophy (no meat what so ever) and adapts to the latest trends in the world of healthy cuisine. From wellness shots and cold-pressed juices to yummy treats and yeast free pizza – we can do it all. The same concept is applied to our water brand. Only sustainable and organic sourcing of the cleanest drinking water.

I am currently relocating KM20water production to a closer location to have more control on all the operations and be confident that my water is perfect in all meanings be it an exclusive glass bottle, a sticker made by my friends and designers Carna Bollente or wide distribution which is yet to come. 

I can see myself launching a fashion brand and a furniture line under the same name. 

Baku: If you could go back in time, is there anything you would do differently?

OK: Of course, throughout your long business journey there may be a lot of things you could do differently looking back, but I like to learn from the experiences to change my future rather than my past. 

 Baku: What excites you most about the present and future?

OK: Personally, I would really want to stay alert, to stay in the present, and always be up to current and future changes. What’s excites me about the future in our industry is a growing number of young talents from all over the world who bring an outstanding vision and shape how we’re going to remember our era in fashion. 

Baku: What are some artists/ architects or designers that inspire you?

OK: I like what my friend Gosha is doing, and I’m very happy with their decision to work together with Kanye. I’m sure it will give us a lot to love, to buy, to see and to listen to. I’m always inspired by true talent and bold vision. Love what Glenn Martins is doing with Diesel and for Y/Project. 

Love to see all the new names that we bring to KM20 every season. I generally love life and am inspired by people around me and how we all evolve with time and get only better. Just like my favourite drink – good wine…

 

gbr.km20.ru

Online Editor: Masha Nosova